Mastering Cheese: An Interview with Max McCalman & Book Giveaway

by kirstin on December 7, 2009

What compelled you to write a 383 page cheese book, now?
Cheese has suffered for far too long, this primordial near-perfect food with a stellar track record for food safety, and a food that is amazingly complex at the same time, that when invited to write another book, this one to be titled “Mastering Cheese,” at first I jumped at the opportunity, my attempt to answer the many questions that I have been asked for the past fifteen years and to allay fears and confusion, all within the cotext of a book that would offer “mastery.” After realizing that the title suggested that it would be all-emcompassing, if not near-complete (as is cheese – nutritionally speaking) then I knew that I would need to stretch beyond the original word count that was budgeted. As it was, I exceeded that count by well over 40%; it had to be pared down. Quite frankly: I have a mission to rescue cheese.
What do you find to be the most understood thing about cheese in the United Sates? In Europe?
For the US I would say that the number one most misunderstood thing about cheese is that is actually is very good for you, or at least that it can be if it is produced and maintained well.
In Europe (for the most part) it seems to be largely receding in appreciation, sadly. As for most misunderstood thing about it? Very similar to the problem here in the US, but especially sadly to see: that it can be as good, both nutritionally and aesthetically, or that it may even be “safer” if it is produced with pasteurized milk. The trend throughout much of Europe is toward the production of cheese made with pasteurized (read: “compromised”) milk.
What are the top three things that you wish people knew about cheese that they don’t?
What genre or realm of cheese do you wish people would embrace, perhaps because it would surprise them, or maybe just because it is often overlooked?
I believe that we often look for the single best pairing partners for cheese: wines, beers, other foods and beverages. When instead I would like to invite people to enjoy cheese without relying on other people’s recommendations or mandates for the ideal successes in pairing partners. Try multiple partners, share the assessments, applaud the wide range of cheese types that are available and have a little variety of types; look to the unexpected matches for new surprises and tolerate other people’s confusion or dissatisfaction with a pairing that seems to work fine for you.
Secondly, I believe that the US is fertile ground for some world-class cheese making; this is where the real excitement is occuring; though not to discount what is still happening in other countries that are still (if not more so) in touch with its agricultural and gastronomic heritage.
What are your feelings about all the cheesebooks that are coming out right now? Excitement? Trepidation? Hunger?
It is great to see the new attention that is being brought to cheese. It is helping to affirm the value of cheese, a food that has been so profoundly misunderstood. Much of what appears to be coming out in print is highlighting the hard work and the passion that goes into producing, developing and maintaining fine cheese.
If you didn’t volunteer to take charge of the cheese cart at Picholine, what do you think you’d be doing today?

It is hard to imagine that I would have found a mission that I would have embraced more passionately; I’ve loved cheese all my life. At a very early age my father told me that I

might become a good teacher.

Mastering Cheese by Max McCalman

Mastering Cheese by Max McCalman

Max McCalman, the man who started the cheese department at New York city’s Picholine and Artisinal Brasserie & Fromagerie, who has written books such as Cheese: A Connoisseur’s Guide, and who heads the dynamic education program at Artisanal, has published a new book. Filled with knowledge ranging from the difference in sheep and cow milk production to overviews of American dairy pioneers and raw-milk cheeses, Mastering Cheese is a textbook fit to grace the bookshelf of any seriuos cheese lover. And it just so happens to look smashing next to your pillow if you, ahem, fall asleep with it.

In honor of this educational yet decadent cheese bible, I’m happy to announce that “It’s Not You Brie” is hosting a book giveaway contest for one copy of Mastering Cheese AND featuring an interview below with the man himself, Max McCalman. Read to the end of the interview to find out what the book giveaway question is, and enjoy! By the end of the interview, if you can’t understand why you would want to own a book written by this man, lord bless you, I can’t help you.

Max McCalman and “It’s Not You, it’s Brie” Interview

What compelled you to write a 383 page cheese book, now?

Cheese has suffered for far too long, this primordial near-perfect food with a stellar track record for food safety, and a food that is amazingly complex at the same time, that when invited to write another book, this one to be titled “Mastering Cheese,” at first I jumped at the opportunity, my attempt to answer the many questions that I have been asked for the past fifteen years and to allay fears and confusion, all within the cotext of a book that would offer “mastery.” After realizing that the title suggested that it would be all-emcompassing, if not near-complete (as is cheese – nutritionally speaking) then I knew that I would need to stretch beyond the original word count that was budgeted. As it was, I exceeded that count by well over 40%; it had to be pared down. Quite frankly: I have a mission to rescue cheese.

What do you find to be the most understood thing about cheese in the United Sates? In Europe?

For the US I would say that the number one most misunderstood thing about cheese is that is actually is very good for you, or at least that it can be if it is produced and maintained well.

In Europe (for the most part) it seems to be largely receding in appreciation, sadly. As for most misunderstood thing about it? Very similar to the problem here in the US, but especially sadly to see: that it can be as good, both nutritionally and aesthetically, or that it may even be “safer” if it is produced with pasteurized milk. The trend throughout much of Europe is toward the production of cheese made with pasteurized (read: “compromised”) milk.

What are the top three things that you wish people knew about cheese that they don’t?

What genre or realm of cheese do you wish people would embrace, perhaps because it would surprise them, or maybe just because it is often overlooked?

I believe that we often look for the single best pairing partners for cheese: wines, beers, other foods and beverages. When instead I would like to invite people to enjoy cheese without relying on other people’s recommendations or mandates for the ideal successes in pairing partners. Try multiple partners, share the assessments, applaud the wide range of cheese types that are available and have a little variety of types; look to the unexpected matches for new surprises and tolerate other people’s confusion or dissatisfaction with a pairing that seems to work fine for you.

Secondly, I believe that the US is fertile ground for some world-class cheese making; this is where the real excitement is occuring; though not to discount what is still happening in other countries that are still (if not more so) in touch with its agricultural and gastronomic heritage.

What are your feelings about all the cheesebooks that are coming out right now? Excitement? Trepidation? Hunger?

It is great to see the new attention that is being brought to cheese. It is helping to affirm the value of cheese, a food that has been so profoundly misunderstood. Much of what appears to be coming out in print is highlighting the hard work and the passion that goes into producing, developing and maintaining fine cheese.

If you didn’t volunteer to take charge of the cheese cart at Picholine, what do you think you’d be doing today?

It is hard to imagine that I would have found a mission that I would have embraced more passionately; I’ve loved cheese all my life. At a very early age my father told me that I might become a good teacher.

Book giveaway rules:

1. Leave a comment in the comment section in this post answering either of these two questions, and I will enter your name into a drawing to win the contest:

a) Does Max like raw-milk cheeses?

b) What’s your favorite raw-milk cheese?

2. Unless you feel like sharing the cost of shipping this glorious, fatty book,with me, live in the continental United States. Kisses.

That’s it, good luck!

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New York: Where the Cheese Never Sleeps
December 16, 2009 at 8:03 AM

{ 31 comments… read them below or add one }

Alexandra December 7, 2009 at 11:13 AM

Brie de Meaux!

Reply

My Year on the Grill December 7, 2009 at 11:19 AM

Of course Max likes raw milk cheese…

And i am a sucker for Greens Creek (gruyere style cheese) from Veldhuizen Family Farm Cheese

here is their website
http://www.veldhuizencheese.com/

Reply

Alan December 7, 2009 at 12:28 PM

He sees pasteurized milk as compromised milk, so raw milk is his preference.
And I agree, raw Brie (when I can find it) is wonderful.

Reply

Jill December 7, 2009 at 12:40 PM

Yes, he does! As do I. I love Fourme d’Ambert from France.

Reply

Deborah December 7, 2009 at 4:57 PM

Yes, one can conclude that he feels cheese made from pasteurized (read: dead) milk is in effect compromised – he’s soooooo right! Favorite cheese? With fresh whole unadulterated milk from my neighbor’s pastured Jersey cow, I make boursín in the summer when the herb garden presents the rest of the ingredients – as simply beautiful as it gets.

Reply

Robin December 7, 2009 at 9:29 PM

Yes, He likes raw milk.
My favorite raw milk cheese is currently Mont d’Or. I had the pleasure of tasting this recently at my friends house outside of Paris. I then saw a Mont d’Or made with pasteurized milk at the airport, and I decided to buy it. There was no comparison between these two cheeses. The raw milk cheese is much more complex and so incredible while the pasteurized was still delicious, it seemed dull.

Reply

Aaron Estes December 8, 2009 at 6:43 AM

1. Yes he likes raw milk and prefers it.

2. I have to say that I love a good raw milk cheddar. There is nothing quite like a piece of Montgomery Cheddar. I have even tried my hand a couple of times at making a traditional cheddar using raw milk. Just a thing of beauty…

Reply

kirstin December 8, 2009 at 5:22 PM

Keep them coming, the contest runs until Tuesday night, the 15th!

Reply

Dana December 9, 2009 at 7:05 AM

It would have to be Constant Bliss by Jasper Hill Farms. Cowgirl Creamery stocks it. Raw milk cheese has crazy layers of flavor. The book looks gorgeous.

Reply

OysterCulture December 9, 2009 at 7:22 AM

This book just sounds incredible and Point Reyes Homestead blue is a favorite – like to stick to close to home. But I have to say asking to pick a favorite raw milk cheese is a lot like asking to pick a favorite sibling. Not fair!

Of course he likes raw milk cheeses! Bien sur

Reply

Cheesewench December 9, 2009 at 8:45 AM

1. Yes, Max enjoys the multi-layered complexity that can be found in raw milk cheeses.

2. Today I am waiting with bated breath for the smokey, bacony, peanutty, creamy goodness that is Winnimere. One of my favorite raw milk cheeses. Just one more month!

Reply

kirstin December 9, 2009 at 10:28 AM

Cheesewench
Thank you for the Winnimere notice- I’m marking my calendar right now!

Reply

diane December 9, 2009 at 10:34 AM

yes he is a proponent of raw milk cheese “The trend throughout much of Europe is toward the production of cheese made with pasteurized (read: “compromised”) milk.”

the book sounds amazing!

best,
diane

Reply

tracy December 9, 2009 at 10:38 AM

fourme d’ambert for sure! and of course he likes it. :) nummy! nick at sent sovi in saratoga, ca takes me on a cheese excursion at tastytwosome.com it’s sooo good!

Reply

Madame Fromage December 9, 2009 at 11:39 AM

Lovely interview — I am dying to get this book. I agree with Mr. M. that raw-milk cheese is superb. Lately, I’ve been loving a cheddar-style raw-milk cheese from Pennsylvania, called PA Noble. It’s woodsy and beefy.

Reply

Stephanie - Wasabimon December 9, 2009 at 12:37 PM

He does like raw milk cheese! I myself don’t know enough to pick a raw that I like, though I’m sure this book will help with that in the future. ;)

Reply

Michael December 9, 2009 at 12:49 PM

Of course he likes raw milk cheese. And right now, the cheese I dream about is “Monte Veronese al Durello”, which I had in Italy this past Autumn, and I cannot get here. It just exploded with flavor. I need to make another trip!

Reply

sherrie December 9, 2009 at 12:50 PM

A) Yes, he loves raw milk cheese. Eff that “compromised” leche.

B) I’ve had some tasty raw milk goat cheese from Redwood Hill Farm!

PLEASE TO WIN BOOK. LOVE CHEEZ.

Reply

Garrett December 9, 2009 at 12:52 PM

A) Yes. Of course. =)
B) Oooo… probably raw cheddar or any raw goat cheese for the win.

Reply

Nikki December 9, 2009 at 12:56 PM

Yes

Organic Valley Raw Sharp Cheddar

Reply

Vera D. December 10, 2009 at 10:47 AM

1) Yes, he does like raw cheese
2) I’m not sure I’ve ever had raw cheese — now is the time to try, right?

Reply

Amanda J December 10, 2009 at 2:25 PM

I’m sure Max likes raw milk cheeses…how could he not??
My favorite is fiscalini cheddar…though i like the idea of a raw milk brie (but never had it)

Reply

Jerry Roark December 10, 2009 at 2:59 PM

I’m down with Pt. Reyes Blue– it’s delicious!

Btw- Nice interview and post K!

Reply

Sam (The Second Lunch) December 13, 2009 at 2:30 PM

Yes he most definitely does!

Honestly, I have yet to meet a raw milk cheese I don’t like! I’m a big fan of when friends attempt their own cheeses in very small scale production.

Reply

Brooke Warner December 14, 2009 at 9:17 PM

Yes, he does. I’m going with Blue D’Auvergne. Honestly, I was trying to find a list of raw cheeses online and the best one I found was from Amazon.com. Weird. And yum.

Reply

mollz December 15, 2009 at 11:27 PM

omgomgomg you are making me pick only one?!?!? what kind of torturous hell are you devising for me. i need more time!!!

Reply

mollz December 16, 2009 at 12:21 AM

ugh!! this is so hard! i have been deliberating and i’ve got it down to three. i hope my overenthusiasm for raw milk cheeses doesn’t disqualify me. or do i maybe get three separate entries??

ok i’ve narrowed it down to: serra da estrella, gruyere, pecorino fresco from sardinia, oh wait i can’t forget rogue river blue soaked in pear brandy…mmm…

Reply

mollz December 16, 2009 at 12:23 AM

hey! it’s only 11:22, but the comment time says 12:21. i swear i made it in under the line!

(yeah i am really excited by this book, me <—-cheesedork)

Reply

Kathleen December 23, 2009 at 7:59 AM

Yes, Max likes his cheese RAW (unpasturized).

Reply

Serge Lescouarnec December 31, 2009 at 11:13 AM

Kirstin

Discovered your creamy blog after posting my interview with a French angle with Max titled Mastering Cheese, the Bible for Cheese Lovers, a Few Party Tips, my Chat with Max McCalman on ‘Serge the Concierge’.

I like the theme of one of your classes, Loire Valley Wines and Cheese.

Happy New Year

Serge
‘The French Guy from New Jersey’
Twitter: @theconcierge

Reply

Bluesummers January 6, 2010 at 12:18 AM

Thanks for sharing this – it is really inspiring and this made me what to consider making cheese at home.

Reply

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