Cheesemaking with the SF Milk Maid: Gosling goat cheese

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The final Gosling

If you’ve ever taken a class with the SF Milk Maid or flipped through Louella Hill’s new cheesemaking book, Kitchen Creamery, you’ve probably had a moment much like the ten or eleven of those I’ve had recently where you find yourself shaking your head in amazement, asking, how does one person know so much?

measuring rennet

measuring rennet

Louella’s book is packed with more cheese types than you though any one human would be able to make, her hand-drawn illustrations accompany the wheels so one can see what rogue bacteria may be to blame if there are too many divets in your brie, and when Louella’s not writing a book, she can be found teaching classes around the Bay Area. She kinda does a lot.

One of the original employees of Narragansett Creamery and the owner of SF Milk Maid, a cheesemaking business that teaches people how to properly stretch curds, Louella’s got a breadth of cheese knowledge under her belt that far surpasses even the amount of cheese that the average French person keeps in their fridge during a year. And she’s nice, and, a big believer in the glory of butter. In short, she’s lovely.

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So when the Louella asked me if I wanted to make Gosling with her at home, I said hell yes. My quick yes could have also been me wanting to make a cheese called Gosling, but mostly I said yes because I wanted to play with this lovely woman in the kitchen. Our cheese of choice? A Loire Valley-style, ashed goat cheese pyramid that looks like Valencay. It was the first time I worked with goat’s milk since returning from Sleight Farms in Somerset, England, and I was beaming.

We’d make the Gosling in one day, she’d leave me with the newly formed pyramid, and then I’d baby and flip it in my fridge for two to three weeks until it passed through cheese adolescence into adulthood.

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Louella’s publishers were nice enough to share the recipe for the beauty below, but I’d also highly recommend Louella’s book. It’s beautiful, down-to-earth, and clear.

Thank you Louella, for cutting curds with me!

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Gosling, Valency Style Cheese- adapted from Kitchen Creamery, Chronicle Books, 2015

These pyramid-shaped cheeses are pure entertainment. At first, they’re firm, geometric and black with ash: brand new. A week later, they’re fuzzy and gray: adolescent. With time, they become white with softened edges: middle-aged. Finally, they slump as the insides become soft: mature. This recipe can be made with cow milk if goat milk is not available and, traditionally, Valencay is an unpasteurized cheese. This recipe is very similar to the Chevre on page XX.

2 gal goat milk
2 tbsp buttermilk
4 drops rennet, undiluted
pinch of Penicillium candidum mold powder
tinier pinch of Geotrichum mold powder
2-3 tsp salt

Materials: 4 pyramid-shaped cheese forms, 2 tsp food-grade vegetable ash
Yield: three to four pyramids, ~8 oz/237 ml each
1. Pour milk in a pot and warm to 72˚F/22˚C. Turn off the heat.

3. Add buttermilk plus mold powders then stir in gently.

4. Now add the 4 drops of rennet. Stir the rennet in then cover the pot and leave in a warm, undisturbed location (free of cold drafts or vibrations) for 15 to 17 hours. If needed, incubate the pot to keep the temperature from fluctuating too much. When curd has firmed up, you will notice a small amount of yellow whey collected on the top and sides of the curd block.

5. Using a ladle or large spoon, scoop curds into clean pyramid forms. It may seem there is too much curd for too few forms. Wait 10 to 15 minutes for the level of the curds to drop, and then fill them to the top again. Continue doing this until all the curd has been used. If clear that the curd amount is disproportionate, add another pyramid form. Set filled pyramids inside a tall, clean plastic aging bin, with an aging mat inside on the bottom. Place lid on tub and allow pyramids to drain for 4 hours. You will need to periodically remove whey from the tub so that the cheese is not sitting in liquid.

7. After 4 hours, invert the pyramids on the aging mat (when cheese has firmed enough to allow you to do so). Pour off any whey as it accumulates in the bottom of the bin.

8. After another half day at room temperature, remove cheese from their forms. Drain and dry the plastic tub, then return cheeses to tub (without forms). Set them them on top of the aging mats.

9. Sprinkle each pyramid with ½ -3/4 tsp of salt over all surfaces as evenly as possible. Allow salt to soak in the salt while continuing to draining in covered bin at room temperature (removing built up whey from the bottom of the container as needed). Drain for 12 more hours.

11. Once cheeses have stopped releasing whey, cover them with vegetable ash; In a draft-free area, use a saltshaker filled with ash to sprinkle all surfaces of each pyramid.

12. Finally, move the salted, ashed cheeses to a dry bin. Set on top of dry, clean mats. Cover with lid and place in the refrigerator for 3 – 4 weeks. Twice a week, rotate the cheeses and remove accumulated moisture. When the cheeses are covered in a downy grey / white mold, they are done. Wrap in breathable cheese paper and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 more weeks.

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Lambrusco: Cheese & Wine Pairing Fit for a Pool Party

LambruscoOnRight (1 of 1)There’s an old cheese & wine geek-honored adage that white wine always pairs better with cheese than red wine. Lambrusco begs to differ (and it also would like to formally invite you to a summer pool party while it has your attention).

There are reasons for this adage. Because white wine often has higher acid than your standard red, it can cut through a cheese’s richness as smoothly as lime does through a heavy coconut curry. And it has lower tannins, which can get into sparring matches with certain cheeses bacterias, yeasts, and rinds. White wine also can have less oak then reds, which can overshadow a cheese’s nuanced flavors.

But take a red wine, ferment it twice so it has bubbles, then serve it with cheese? That’s bliss. And that’s proof that adages aren’t always right.

Lambrusco

Just ask me on a summer’s day, when I can be found sipping Lambrusco and downing cheese next to a pool, on a porch, or maybe even while sitting at my desk writing this post (it’s not technically summer, but let’s just say it’s a very hot 81 here in Oakland).

Why is Lambrusco a pool cheese-party wine and why is it so good with cheese? Thus commences the third segment of Bubbles & Cheese Pairing 101.

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Pools and large bodies of water favor bubbles over still wines and chilled liquids over room temperature ones. It’s a proven fact. Pictures of pool drinks always show a chilled liquid. The best photos picture chilled and bubbly liquid. Enter Lambrusco, a beautiful red alcoholic liquid.

Made in Emilia-Romagna or Lombardy, Italy, from the grape of the same name, Lambrusco is a red, bubbly wine that has great acidity, a dash of tannins to keep things interesting, and fresh red fruit. Lambrusco has gotten a bit of a poor reputation- not because it has been seen out late at night sneaking off to hang out with Nebbiolo or Sangiovese- but because a large amount of poor quality Lambrusco was exported to the states in the eighties and nineties that was sweet, overly fruity, and frankly, boring. The good stuff though, is a revelation.

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Bing cherries, red currant, fresh herbs and pepper are flavors common in Lambrusco. Add all this to cold bubbles and you have pure refreshment.

Despite that Lambrusco’s also fantastic for summer because it’s bright, delicious, cold, and bubbly and looks good next to pools, the main reason that Lambrusco is the perfect summer party wine is because it’s easy to pair.

Summer is meant for easy food, low amounts of cooking, light dishes, and relaxing. Since Lambrusco just happens to be one of the easiest wines to pair with cheese, this works out just right. You can pretty much set it out with any cheese and it’ll charm the plate like a lightening bug charms a child. Or me. The tiny bit of tannins Lambrusco has teams up with its bright acid to cut the richness of cheese. Its often herbal and peppery notes bring out grassy, herbal lemony flavors in sheep or goat’s milk cheese. And the bubbles? Well, that’s like a freebie. They wrap around the rich cheese molecules and keep everything light. And because Lambruscos are low, or no oak, they don’t overpower cheese.

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The Lambrusco’s I’ve served in pairing classes pretty much went with everything on the plate.

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But here are some guidelines.

Yes’s: Goat and sheep milk cheese, and many cow’s.

  • Anything from sheep’s milk ricotta to lightly aged wheels like Barinaga’s Txiki, Bellwether’s Pepato, or more aged like Pecorino Toscano. Soft and hard goat’s milk cheeses are great, too. Fleur Verte- the young chevre covered in herbs? Perfect. Sleight Farm’s Tymsboro or Vermont Cheese Bonne Bouche? Golden Tickets.
  • Even cow’s milk cheeses like Gruyere, Comté, or Cheddar can’t help but say yes to the bubbly red one. You can go with bries, but generally think more aged- as a cheese gets more mature and complex, it likes a little extra in its wine, too.
  • If you’re just not a sweet wine fan but like your cheeses fierce and want a wine that won’t be overhwelmed, know that Lambrusco’s love blues, too.  Roquefort or Bayley Hazen, and even funky washed-rinds like Époisses or Tallegio too.

Only no’s

  •  I know that Lambrusco comes from Parmesan land, which seems like a lovely and regional pairing, but stay away from the super old “grana” style like cheese with Lambrusco. If you’re going Parm, think a year or under. The wine’s high acidity and bubbles make the “grana” cheeses seem dry and grainy. Same goes for gouda.

What do you like with your Lambrusco?

 

Strawberry Rhubarb Balsamic Compote (Looooves Goat Cheese)

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In the theme of spring, baby goats jumping about fields, goat cheese, and the most amazing sweet strawberries I’ve tasted in years (are they candy, are they strawberries, are they candy-strawberries?), I wanted to share again with you one of my favorite recipes for cheese. I developed this recipe after talking to my relatives in Minnesota last year about our local farmer’s markets. Mine seemed almost completely red they were so flooded with strawberries, I told them. Walking through their’s, they said, felt like they were wading in rhubarb.

Now, I love the combo of strawberries and rhubarb. And I love pie. And I see where someone else might have gone with this. But since I also love goat cheese, and strawberries and rhubarb taste awesome with goat cheese, and and I am worse at making pie dough then I am at holding to new year’s resolutions of being able to do a pull-up by the end of May, I decided to focus on a strawberry-rhubarb balsamic compote instead that pairs excellently with cheese. Win-win?

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It’s sweet, but it’s also tart. It’s dessert-like, but it’s also has enough freshness to it that you could spoon it over your oatmeal in the morning and feel like you were getting a serving of fruit (in a completely gratuitous way).

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The cheese I created the recipe for is Pug’s Leap Pavé, above. Pug’s Leap is a much-loved Petaluma creamery that went out of commission for a while while transitioning to different ownership. Well, as of about two years ago, it’s back, and producing lovely bloomy-rinded, French styles that are lively, thick and flaky, and slice-ready for being put on a crostini with strawberry-rhubarb balsamic compote. And not only do they make their own cheese, they supply milk for the lovely Gypsy Rose family too. And did I mention that they have a flying pug on the label?

Try this compote next time you have brunch, serve a heavy meal and want to keep your dessert light, or, over ice cream or yogurt. Then keep your leftovers for toast or oatmeal the next morning.

Strawberry Rhubarb Balsamic Compote

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Strawberry Rhubarb Compote

1/2 pound rhubarb- sliced half an inch thick

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated white sugar

1 tablespoon honey

1/8 tablespoon freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 cups sliced strawberries- sliced a quarter inch thick.

 

In a medium saucepan, combine the rhubarb, sugar, pepper, honey, and balsamic and stir with a wooden spoon. On high heat, warm until the balsamic starts bubbling. Once bubbly, reduce heat to medium-low. Cover the pot with a lid, leaving it slightly ajar so steam can escape. Cook for seven minutes, lifting lid to stir occasionally. Take off the lid and cook for two more minutes, or until half of the rhubarb in the pan is soft and dissolving, like in the fifth photo above. Add the strawberries to the pot and stir. Continue cooking on medium-high heat for ten to fifteen more minutes, until the strawberries start to soften, but still keep their shape. Cool, then serve with your favorite goat cheese!

Marinated Olive Recipe: Spring Cheese ♥’s Lucques

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There are a few things I keep on hand for the Kitchen Time portion of a dinner party. Kitchen Time, you may wonder, is the time of the night when guests gather in the kitchen and shake me a cocktail while I stir something very important looking on the stove. Sometimes very important stirring requires more time, so the cocktails turn plural. This is my favorite time of the night.

Because I like to be fully present when guests arrive and not worry about what to do next or whether I’ve chopped enough parsley for the garnish, I always keep a few things on hand that are easy to pull out of the fridge, freezer, oven, and simply serve.

My Kitchen Time snacks are most often seasonal. Gougeres, for example, freeze well and are perfect for winter- just pop them in the oven when guests arrive. Fall calls for roasted sage almonds and Alpine cheeses. Spring?

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Marinated lucque olives and fresh goat or sheep’s milk cheese. 

Lucque olives are olives turned to 11. Buttery, rich, and sweet, they are the perfect contrast to spring’s lively cheeses. Spring is when animals are out grazing and foraging on wild herbs and grasses and the citrusy, herbal freshness of the cheese snuggles right up to the rich notes in the lucques.

On their own, lucque olives are delicious, but paired with fresh herbs and citrus zest, they’re addictive. I have people coming in to the wine bar I work asking if they can buy them to-go… we don’t do that.

But lucky for the person who can’t sweet-talk me into boxing them up, or who lives far away from Albany, Marinated lucque olives are super simple to make at home. And now’s the time to serve them. And, yes, they’re adaptable. Don’t have an orange? Skip it. Have sage but no rosemary? It’ll still be delicious. Just serve with a young cheese like chevre, Nicasio’s Foggy Morning or Bohemian Creamery’s Bodacious that’s sweet an fresh.

 

Marinated Luque Olives

3 cups lucques, in their brine

zest of one orange

zest of one lemon

4 sprigs fresh rosemary

4 sprigs fresh thyme

Put olives in a container that can hold them and their brine. Add the orange and lemon zest, rosemary and thyme to the brine and stir. Marinate for at least two hours and up to two weeks.

That’s it!

 

And if you’re wondering where I got that awesome heart in the title, I cut and pasted from Alyssa Milano’s twitter page. xoxoxo

Pét Nat- The Coolest Sparkler on the Block, and Cheese

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Pét Nat – otherwise known as pétillant naturel- is the coolest sparkler on the block these days. People are throwing parties around it. Restaurants are putting on dinners in its honor, traditional vignerons versions are flying off the shelves, and experimental winemakers in the states are romancing the style every which way they can. Is it okay to be jealous of a wine?

Why is Pét Nat the coolest kid on the block? Well, perhaps partially because Pét Nat doesn’t care (kinda like honey badger). Unlike champagne or sparkling made via the champagne méthode that undergo two very careful fermentations- the first turns the grape juice into alcohol, and the second forms bubbles in the bottle, Pét Nat only goes through one fermentation, whenever it feels like it.

This is thrill-seeking kind of winemaking. The reason the other guys undergo two fermentations is because it’s much easier to control the outcome. Once you know the juice turned to booze, you can bottle the wine then add a very controlled amount of sugar to rev up the yeast again, then keep an eye on the bubbles. Pét Nat, however, is spontaneously fermented, meaning that no sugar or yeast is added. In fact, Pét Nat is bottled and capped before the first fermentation is finished, meaning that winemakers have much less control over the final product.

It’s natural winemaking, and quite simply, the bubbly can start or stop bubbling whenever it wants and flavors vary like crazy. Often there’s a little residual sugar left. Scary? Kind of. Traditional? In some places. Wild? Yes. Some nights I lie awake dreaming I were as relaxed and cool as Pét Nat.

Sparkling wine and cheese pairing

Bubbles

Onward and Donkey & Goat in California and Domaine La Grange Tiphaine, Texier, and Catherine Breton in France make lovely versions.

So what does a lassez-faire bubbly like Pét Nat like to eat?

 Cream, and AlpinesAnd sometimes earthy, grassy cheddars.

Prix de Diane, creamy.

Prix de Diane, creamy.

Because flavors in a pétillant naturel can get a little crazy with all the spontaneous yeast action going on, pét nat can taste like, well lots of different things, but often like fresh yeast. Think the smell of fresh yeast that’s being activated in a bowl of water before being added to dough rather the scent of brioche or bread baking like in champagne or crémant. Sometimes you’ll get lightly tart, floral, or stonefruit notes too.

A wine with this much going on often likes being the star of the show with a creamy yet straightfoward cheese. Other times it appreciates a cheese with a little funk and yeast of its own, like a mellow Alpine whose rind has been washed with B. linens that has a light, sweet funkiness just like the cheese. I’ve had some fantastic pairings with Pét Nat and bandage wrapped cheddars, too. Go for a grassy one- the cheddars with earthy notes shine with the sparkling’s lightly funky bubbles.

Aging.

My favorite cheeses with Pét Nat

Creamy: Mt. Tam, Castica di Bufala, or Brillant Savarin

Alpine or Mountain Style: Challerhocker, Comté, Cobb Hill Ascutney Mountain, Nicasio Reserve

Cheddars: Hafod, Bleu Mont, Fiscalini

 

*Last notes- in case you were wondering like I was what is the difference between Pét Nat and méthod ancestrale, they are are the same method. While méthod ancestrale is a term whose use is restricted to certain AOCs- Clairette de Die, Gallac, Limoux, and Bugey, pétillant naturel may be used freely . Thank you to my sommelier friend Hristo Zisovski and his friends at Pearl & Ash who explained this me!

Lakin’s Gorges Cheese: A Woman, 60 Cows, and Some Spareribs.

Prix de Diane

Prix de Diane

In order for one to flourish on social media, certain people suggest, one must be attentive to their accounts at all moments. One must post on twitter two to three times a day. One must leave comments on blogs so their authors will notice you, visit your blog, and then (fingers crossed and pray to the blog gods) leave comments on yours. One most be on twitter and instagram and facebook, post on their blog, and on pinterest, send out newsletters, and then… at some point, breath. It’s a roller-coaster. Some love it. Others enjoy the ride in the roller-coaster car to the top, taking in the view, saying hello to other passengers, then suddenly remember on the way down they’re afraid of heights and spend the rest of the trip screaming. For me, it’s often a struggle to keep my platform wits about me, but other times, it’s a blessing. Years ago, I was invited to stay in the Loire Valley with a charming French woman, and I’ve met some of my now-best friends through twitter. But lately interactions on social media had felt a little slow.

Then a couple months ago, Allison from Lakin’s Gorges contacted me. We were following each other on Instagram, she said. Would I like to try her cheese? She is a one-woman show in Rockport Maine who makes wheels with organic milk from Tide Milk farm’s sixty grass-fed cows, she wrote. I was intrigued. I checked out her website. She learned cheesemaking at the University of Wisconsin and got her cheese legs under Peter Dixon. Her wheels looked tasty, I was already impressed. Then I learned that two years before she started making cheese, she competed in the All Ireland Bones Playing championship in Abbeyfeale and she saves her sparerib bones to make traditional Irish instruments. I replied yes.

Lakin's Gorges Opus 42

Lakin’s Gorges Opus 42

A  month or two later her cheese triumphed over the polar vortex shipping hastening and arrived on my door. All of them were tasty. My favorites were the Prix de Diane and Opus 42

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Prix de Diane: Oozy, creamy. Like someone stirred fresh cream with a splash of lemon juice. Jacketed in a healthy bloomy rind. Lovely with prosecco.

Opus 42: Could snack on this all day with dry sherry. Crumbly, dense, earthy, reminded me a little of Landaff’s Landaff or Caerphilly, but with a flakier texture. Tastes like it had been sprinkled with lemon juice. Semi-soft and shave-able. Would be delicious over favas and fresh egg pasta.

 

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Allison was also kind enough to answer a couple questions, below.

What similarities do you find that link cheesemaking to playing Irish music for you?

Playing Irish music and making cheese are both all about the rhythm. You have to sit back, pay attention to the progression, and wait for that moment when it slides into the groove with amazing results. It doesn’t pay to rush and sometimes doing nothing is the best option.

Do you still make your rib bones to make your instruments?

I started playing bones when I worked at Mystic Seaport and made my first set after eating a delicious spare rib dinner. Today I also like to use shin bones, which produce a different timbre when played. I add scrimshaw designs to my bones. Scrimshaw was traditionally practiced aboard whaling ships, sailors would take a sail needle and inscribe a design on a whalebone and then rub ink into the picture.

A link to Allison competing in the 2009 All Ireland Bone Playing Championship in Abbeyfeale, and to the Rhythm Bones Society.

You can order Lakin’s Gorges cheese online, or if you’re in the east coast you can check out Portland Food Coop, Peekytoe Provisions, Formaggio Kitchen, River Valley Market, Eataly and Little Bleu Cheese Shop.